wine writer's diary
As a wine buyer there are a number of wine producing regions where an imminent visit creates a certain feeling of anticipation of the joys to come, for me the classic region of Bordeaux is one place that always stirs a swell of excitement from within. After all, it is probably the most famous wine producing region in the World and home to some of the wine World’s most expensive and sought after treasures.
Bordeaux city itself is certainly worth a visit in its own right, having undergone a complete transformation over the last 7 years. Similarly, the region’s wines have also seen a big change: there’s a new found confidence and willingness to deliver consistently attractive drinking with less oak, less tannin and much more appeal, whilst still delivering a sense of place. Luckily for you this new found excellence in wine is readily available on the shelf of your local Wine Rack, so you too can dive into some of the best drinking wines on the planet.
The recent change in style of many wines in Bordeaux is down to a new breed of owners and winemakers in the region. Take Jean Luc Zell, the charismatic winemaker at the 13th century Chateau d’Agassac. Jean Luc’s determination to get the best from the property is highly infectious, it’s behind these gothic walls that he crafts a thing of beauty from the grapes. Chateau Pomies d’Agassac may be the second wine of the estate but it tastes like a wine at twice the price, supple, polished and exceptional, which is the result of stringent fruit selection and combined use of American and French oak to deliver a softer touch.
A short drive up the road from Agassac is the exalted commune of Margaux, home to the first growth property of Chateau Margaux were a single bottle of wine will cost you upwards of £200. However sitting almost directly behind and sharing the same soil profile is the understated Chateau Deyrem Valentin. The 12 hectare estate has been in family hands since 1828, but it’s the contemporary way in which the present owners’ daughter Christelle Sorge is administrating production that is finally bearing fruit, the current vintage 2004 is a case in point.
Probably the most beautiful village in the entire appellation of Bordeaux is the famous town of St Emilion. Arriving here one immediately relaxes into the languid pace of life. It’s the merlot grape that dominates proceedings here, delivering up an array of flavours that simply bombard the palate with a mind blowing attack.
It’s within the St Emilion appellation that I meet with Stephane Apelbaum of Vignobles Apelbaum, owner of Domaine Yssy which is made within the fine walls of Chateau Quercy. Stephane looks for all the world like a surfer dude and is somewhat out of character with his traditional chateau home, but this for me is all the more refreshing. His philosophy is simple, let the terroir speak! Some of the vines here were planted in 1901, and are tended in an as organic a fashion as possible, no sprays, wild ferments in the cellar, in other words let nature do the work. The results are wonderful. Yssy 2004 blasts cassis and a touch of mint out of the glass, the palate is sumptuous with mouthfilling fruit and a touch of welcoming spice, very classy indeed.
The great thing is that this famous wine producing region has grasped the modern need for appealing wines whilst maintaining it’s true identity, you couldn’t mistake the wines coming from anywhere else, they are just simply better than ever, so take your time to discover the pleasures of Bordeaux and try some of the delights available.
I welcome your views and questions,
Au Revoir
Jonathan Butt
Head of Global sourcing, Wine Rack
